You arrive in the Italian Riviera during a rare quiet week in December, when the coast slows down but never loses its rhythm. The sea sits calm, the towns return to local life, and the experience feels more personal. Even after the summer crowds vanish, this coastline still draws you in.
You wander between seaside villages, old ports, and trails that show off Liguria’s real pace. Each stop offers something to see, taste, or stroll through at your own speed. This week’s guide is all about enjoying the region’s landscapes, food, and traditions as the year winds down.
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1) Hike the Cinque Terre trails between Monterosso and Vernazza
Start this hike in either town, but Monterosso gives you a steady climb followed by a gentle descent into Vernazza. The trail is part of the famous Sentiero Azzurro, or Blue Trail, linking all five Cinque Terre villages. You’ll tackle steady slopes, narrow steps, and uneven stones—so moderate fitness helps.
You’ll pass olive terraces and tiny vineyards, still tended by hand. On clear days, the views of cliffs and the Ligurian Sea really open up. The route between Monterosso and Vernazza stretches about 3.7 kilometers (check out this Monterosso to Vernazza hike via Sentiero Azzurro guide).
You need a Cinque Terre Card for this stretch, confirmed by local park authorities on the Hiking trails in Cinque Terre page. Bring water, decent shoes, and expect about two hours of walking if you stop for photos. At the end, Vernazza’s harbor has cafés where you can rest and soak up the village vibe before heading back by train or wandering further.
2) Explore Portofino’s charming harbor and shops
Portofino is an easy ferry, private boat, or short bus ride from Santa Margherita Ligure. The harbor sits in a snug cove, pastel buildings reflected in the water. Early mornings or late afternoons are best—less bustle, more charm.
Stroll the main quay where fishing boats and fancy yachts bob side by side. Grab an espresso or seafood lunch at a café overlooking the marina. The path leads toward the lighthouse at Punta del Capo, where you get classic Ligurian views.
Shops close for long midday breaks, so browse before noon or after 4 p.m. Duck into boutiques selling linen, handmade jewelry, and local olive oil. Portofino’s boutiques and artisan stores offer both big names and local crafts.
Prices can be steep, but honestly, the setting and quality often make it worthwhile. Even just window shopping, the narrow coral-pink lanes give you Portofino’s charm—minus the summer crowds.
3) Visit the Abbey of San Fruttuoso by boat
Catch a ferry from Camogli, Portofino, or Santa Margherita Ligure to the tucked-away Abbey of San Fruttuoso. The ride gives you a steady view of cliffs and cobalt water before you slip into a quiet cove hiding this old monastery. This Benedictine abbey is wedged between sea and forest—peaceful, almost hidden.
The building, now cared for by Fondo Ambiente Italiano, has stone arches and a pebbly beach just outside. Inside, you’ll find simple chapels, Doria family tombs, and a small museum telling its long story. There’s something about the place—no frills, just history and calm.
Boats run all year from Camogli, and seasonally from other towns, weather depending. Check schedules first—departures get canceled if the wind picks up. Visiting by boat saves you the steep two-hour hike, but you still get those close shoreline views. Get more details from this guide to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso.
4) Discover Genoa’s historic old town and its port
Genoa’s Old Town is a maze of alleys called caruggi. It’s one of Europe’s largest historic centers, hemmed in by old gates like Porta Soprana and Porta dei Vacca. The compact streets are dense with medieval architecture and centuries of merchant history—see the Genoa Old Town travel guide.
Restored palaces and shady courtyards hint at Genoa’s old maritime power. Palazzi Rolli, once noble homes, now house art and cultural offices. Stone facades and iron balconies show off the city’s craftsmanship and past wealth.
Head downhill to Porto Antico, now a waterfront plaza with museums, cafés, and an aquarium. It’s quieter in winter, but locals still hang out. The list of top attractions on Lonely Planet highlights this spot for experiencing modern Genoa right by the old docks.
You’ll get a real mix of medieval lanes and open sea views—a city that’s still living its history.
5) Taste local Ligurian focaccia in a seaside café
You’ll spot Ligurian focaccia in every coastal town, but the real deal comes from bakeries near the water. In Recco, the famous Focaccia di Recco stands out—thin layers filled with fresh cheese. Locals eat it warm, just a glass of white wine on the side.
In Camogli, café terraces overlook the bay, and the bakery smell mixes with salt air. Grab a slice of plain or onion-topped focaccia and watch fishermen mend nets along the harbor. It’s a relaxed, everyday scene—nothing staged for tourists.
Further west, towns like Santa Margherita Ligure add their own twist. A guided food tour lets you sample Gamberi Viola, local pasta, and warm focaccia straight from the oven. Weekdays are quieter, so finding a table at a seaside café is a breeze.
Service is simple, flavors are honest. The salt, olive oil, and soft crumb echo generations of local baking. You leave full, sea breeze in your hair, the taste of fresh bread lingering.
6) Relax on the beaches of Alassio
Alassio’s shoreline stretches long and flat, just steps from the town center. The sand is soft, and the bay stays calm even when the wind blows. Families like the shallow water, while swimmers can head out farther without rough surf.
Walk the Lungomare e Molo promenade for a lazy afternoon among cafés and gelato shops. Sit under an umbrella or try water sports along the main Spiaggia di Alassio. Early mornings are peaceful, especially in December—perfect for a quiet walk with a view of Gallinara Island.
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If you want variety, check out other beaches in Alassio, from lively public spots to private stretches run by local hotels. Facilities are basic but handy—changing cabins, showers, easy access. Some places close for winter, so double-check when you get there.
7) Take a boat tour along the Riviera di Ponente coast
The Riviera di Ponente looks best from the water. A boat tour lets you see the coastline’s long curve from Genoa to the French border—beaches, rocky cliffs, and villages hugging the sea. Winter light changes fast, giving the coast a softer, quieter vibe.
Operators run small group trips from harbors like Savona, Alassio, and Imperia. You can book through platforms listing the best boat rides and day cruises in the Italian Riviera. Tours range from short loops to half-day routes stopping in fishing towns for coffee or seafood.
December’s cooler, so bring a jacket and check the weather before booking. The sea can get rough, and some companies cut back on departures. But when it’s calm, you get clear air, open water, and usually fewer people on board.
Want to go at your own pace? Some marinas rent small boats to licensed visitors. That way, you can poke around quiet coves or snap photos of villages like Finale Ligure and Noli—no crowds, just you and the coast.
8) Dine on fresh seafood in Camogli
Camogli feels quieter than Portofino but just as tied to the sea. Local boats come and go, and the day’s catch often lands on restaurant menus within hours. It’s easy to wander from one seafood spot to the next, all looking out over the pebble beach and colorful houses.
Try anchovies, stuffed mussels, or seafood pasta. Travelers rave about the simple, ultra-fresh food—no fancy plating needed. Check out Tripadvisor’s Camogli guide for top seafood spots before you go.
Dinners start late, especially on weekends. Expect a crowd at sunset as locals gather and visitors snap photos of the bay. Some places close in midwinter, so check hours when you’re in town. Even with fewer restaurants open, the ones that stay serve up quality fish and easygoing service.
9) Shop for artisanal crafts at Levanto market
Levanto’s small market pops up in the town center by the main pedestrian street. Local vendors sell ceramics, carved wood, woven baskets, and fabric goods—all made in nearby Ligurian villages. The vibe is casual, and vendors usually chat about their work if you ask.
Go early for the best selection and fewer people. Prices run from affordable souvenirs to pricier handmade pieces. If you like quieter browsing, check out Levanto’s best places for shopping for more local shops.
Bring cash—some stalls don’t take cards. Market hours shift with the seasons, but winter mornings are a safe bet. Nearby cafés have quick espresso or pastries if you need a break.
This market is for travelers who want real handcrafted gifts, not mass-produced stuff. It’s a glimpse of local life and a way to support artisans still making things by hand.
10) Walk through the colorful streets of Tellaro village
Tellaro sits near Lerici, a coastal corner where narrow alleys dip toward the sea. Pastel houses make a tight maze, their colors a bit faded from salt air and time. Fishermen’s boats rest by the tiny harbor, proof that people still live and work here—it’s not just for photos.
Walking uphill, you’ll pass cafés and workshops instead of chain stores. The slow rhythm of daily life goes on around you. Locals call out from balconies or chat on the steps between homes. The Church of Stella Maris, built in 1942, stands as the main landmark and displays sacred art, including a statue of St. George in the nave (see Visit Italy’s guide to Tellaro).
From the cliffs past the church, you get wide views over the Gulf of Poets. The light shifts fast on the Ligurian coast—bring a camera for those late afternoon scenes. Tellaro stays quieter than Cinque Terre, perfect if you love narrow stone lanes and sea air more than busy promenades.
Seasonal Travel Tips for the Italian Riviera
Visiting the Italian Riviera in late December means quieter streets, festive lights, and a slower rhythm. The region is still open and friendly, but you’ll need to plan for cooler weather, different transit schedules, and the occasional holiday crowd.
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Weather and What to Pack
December along the Ligurian coast usually hovers between 8–14°C (46–57°F). The sea air hangs damp, especially in the mornings, and the hills inland? They’re colder still. Rain pops up here and there, but it’s rarely more than a passing shower. You’ll catch plenty of bright days—perfect for wandering towns or strolling by the sea if you’ve dressed right.
Layers are your friend. Toss in a mid-weight jacket, a waterproof shell, and shoes with decent grip for those slick stone streets. A scarf and hat come in handy, especially when the wind whips up near the ports.
You’ll see locals in cardigans or wool sweaters, not big winter coats. Planning to hike around Cinque Terre or Portofino? Waterproof shoes and a breathable base layer will save you. Gloves make evening walks a lot more comfortable once the breeze picks up. Hotels and apartments crank the heat, but mornings before sunrise can bite.
Local Transportation During December
Trains connect most of the coast all year, but around Christmas, Trenitalia cuts back on some regional routes. It’s smart to check schedules ahead—this Tripadvisor guide to Ligurian attractions and logistics has links and maps.
Intercity buses run between Genoa, Savona, and La Spezia, though after December 24, evening departures get sparse. If you’re driving, parking’s easier in winter, but those narrow lanes get slick with dew or drizzle. Scooter rentals? Don’t count on them outside bigger towns.
Honestly, walking’s the best way to see compact places like Santa Margherita Ligure or Camogli. Bring a small umbrella, and waterproof soles make a difference on the cobbles. Taxis use fixed holiday rates—ask about the fare before you hop in.
Holiday Safety Precautions
Crowds pick up again around Christmas Eve and New Year’s. Larger towns like Genoa and Sanremo host festive events—markets, outdoor concerts, that kind of thing. You’ll find listings similar to those in 10 Exciting Things to Do in the Italian Riviera This Week.
Keep an eye on your stuff in busy areas. Petty theft isn’t rampant, but train stations and waterfront markets see their share. ATMs sometimes run low on cash around the holidays—grab what you need earlier in the day.
Need help? Dial 112 for police or medical emergencies. Pharmacies post weekend duty hours right on their doors. Streets and paths can get slick from rain or frost overnight, so non-slip shoes and grabbing railings on steep stairways are just smart moves.
Cultural Highlights and Local Traditions
December in the Italian Riviera feels like a mix of quiet seaside calm and those cozy community gatherings you wish you could find everywhere. There’s something about winter here—old customs linger, and the seasonal foods really make you feel like you’re getting a taste of Liguria.
Holiday Festivals and Celebrations
Christmas in Liguria isn’t just about decorations. Open-air nativity scenes, little concerts in port towns, and twinkling lights along the promenades pop up all over. Manarola’s presepi—those sprawling, handmade nativity scenes on the terraces—are something you have to see after dark. Locals put real pride into these, using stone, wood, and moss from the hills.
In Genoa and Rapallo, holiday markets fill old squares. You’ll see ceramics, olive-wood carvings, wool scarves—gifts with a real local touch. People stop for vin brulé (mulled wine) between the stalls, chatting and lingering, not rushing. It’s a slower pace, and honestly, it suits the season.
Public processions, like the Festa di Santo Stefano on December 26, bring everyone out after Christmas. Music, church bells, parades—they fill the narrow streets in both mountain and seaside villages. These aren’t tourist shows; they’re just how life goes here, even in winter. If you’re around, you get a glimpse of Liguria that’s as real as it gets.
Cuisine and Winter Specialties
Winter menus on the Riviera lean into heartier, more aromatic food. You’ll spot pansoti con salsa di noci—ricotta-herb ravioli in walnut sauce—at trattorias, especially around Rapallo, where folks say the dish began. Chefs love to show off olive oil from nearby groves and anchovies fresh from Camogli, always trying to strike that balance between richness and brightness.
Colder inland towns bring out minestrone alla genovese, loaded with whatever veggies are in season, beans, and a basil pesto that’s thinned down for chilly weather. Bakeries crank out pandolce genovese, a dense fruit bread with roots tangled up in Genoa’s old trading days. If you’re curious, guides like 11 Stunning Things to Do in the Italian Riviera go deeper into the story.
Pairing these dishes with a glass of Vermentino or Pigato feels just right for the holidays. You won’t find much in the way of heavy sauces or cream-laden plates; Ligurian cooking keeps things light and balanced, whether you’re by the sea or tucked into a quiet inland village where family recipes haven’t changed much—if at all.
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About the Italian Riviera
Cinque Terre Travel Guide
Cuisine of the Italian Riviera
Genoa Travel Guide
Italian Riviera Landmarks
Riviera di Levante Travel Guide
Riviera di Ponente Travel Guide
