The Italian Riviera slows down in early December, but its coastal towns still invite exploration. The crowds fade, the pace softens, and the sea settles into a calm rhythm that reveals more of local life. This quieter season? Honestly, it’s one of the most rewarding times to wander the Ligurian coast.
You’ll pass fishing boats, hillside trails, and harbor cafés that still welcome those who linger. Each spot has its own story—some shaped by centuries of maritime trade, others by the simple routines that keep tradition alive. Here’s a week’s itinerary to help you soak up landscapes, food, and culture that feel genuine, unhurried, and distinctly Italian.
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1) Stroll through the colorful cliffside streets of Cinque Terre
Explore five compact villages—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore—each clinging to the cliffs along the Ligurian coast. Their steep lanes and stairways link pastel houses facing the open sea, offering a kind of modest charm that feels refreshingly real.
Walking between the villages, either by foot or train, gives you glimpses of local life. You’ll pass laundry-draped balconies and small produce shops, with locals going about their day. The winter days are quieter, and the energy feels more grounded.
Hiking the coastal trail lets you appreciate the rugged terrain and old terraces built for vineyards and olives. The paths get uneven, so bring sturdy shoes and don’t rush the climbs. It’s worth it for those raw, panoramic views—no filter needed.
If you want a primer on the best routes, this Cinque Terre guide breaks down highlights and practical tips, making it easier to decide whether to linger in one village or try to see all five.
2) Hike the scenic trails between Portofino and San Fruttuoso
Set out from Portofino and follow one of Liguria’s most rewarding coastal hikes to San Fruttuoso. The trail winds through Portofino Natural Park, mixing pine forests, terraced hills, and sea cliffs—never boring, sometimes steep, always scenic. You’ll want solid shoes and a bottle of water.
Starting near Portofino’s harbor, the path climbs through stone steps and olive groves, then flattens out with sweeping views of the coast. Portofino Trek mentions Base 0, a popular viewpoint. If you’d rather avoid the big climbs, start from San Fruttuoso and walk toward Portofino instead.
The hike usually takes two or three hours each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop. At San Fruttuoso, check out the medieval abbey tucked in a hidden cove, as AllTrails describes. You can always catch a ferry back to Portofino and see the cliffs from the water on your return.
3) Explore the historic maritime village of Chiavari
Chiavari sits on the Ligurian coast, about halfway between Genoa and Cinque Terre. The town combines seaside calm with a well-preserved old center, great for travelers who want a taste of local life without big crowds. Its grid of porticoed streets dates back to medieval times and makes strolling between shops and cafés easy.
Start along the waterfront promenade, where locals take evening walks. The harbor’s relaxed, dotted with fishing boats and leisure yachts. Duck into the narrow alleys of the centro storico to see historic façades, arcades, and bakeries selling focaccia and olive pastries. For landmarks, Tripadvisor’s top Chiavari attractions gives a solid overview.
Discover Italian Riviera points out Chiavari’s blend of maritime character and cultural heritage. Spend some time at the daily market or wander the 19th-century Palazzo Rocca park. Evenings are mellow, with restaurants serving regional dishes like pansoti with walnut sauce. Chiavari rewards those who like to take things slow.
4) Visit the quiet harbors and stone lanes of Camogli
Camogli feels restful compared to its busier neighbors like Portofino or Santa Margherita. The harbor is the heart of daily life, with fishing boats tied up near the ferry dock. Early mornings, locals still mend nets and chat along the promenade before visitors arrive.
Wander the narrow stone lanes lined with pastel façades. Buildings cluster together, creating cool, shaded alleys. Small bakeries and seafood cafés serve focaccia and simple dishes with local anchovies.
Along the waterfront, cafés overlook a stretch of pebbled beach. The promenade leads straight to boats heading for San Fruttuoso Abbey—a trip many travelers combine with a swim or short hike. Tripadvisor’s best things to do in Camogli points out the walk to the abbey as a top activity.
Prefer to take it even slower? Hang out near the old church of Santa Maria Assunta and watch the harbor shift with the tide. The pace here stays unhurried, and you really do get a sense of everyday Ligurian life.
5) Dine on fresh seafood at a seaside trattoria in Levanto
Levanto, just beside Cinque Terre, serves up some of the freshest seafood along the coast—and with a calmer vibe. Fishing boats bring in the daily catch, and trattorias turn it into simple, traditional dishes.
A reliable spot is Antica Trattoria Centro, near the main promenade. It’s been serving fish for two decades in a relaxed space where locals and visitors mix. Expect grilled sea bream, mussels in tomato broth, or pasta with clams.
Other restaurants on Via Roma and Corso Italia offer similar menus at a range of prices. Tripadvisor’s Levanto seafood restaurant list helps you compare before you pick. Outdoor tables with a sea view fill up, so booking ahead is smart.
Service moves at a typical Ligurian pace—no one’s rushing. Plan for a long meal and maybe end with a glass of local Vermentino, a crisp white wine that pairs well with seafood.
6) Take a boat tour along the Ligurian coastline
See the Italian Riviera from a different angle—hop on a coastal boat tour. From small harbors like Camogli or Levanto, boats glide past cliffs, pastel villages, and quiet coves. From the water, you really get how much the sea shapes life here.
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Tours range from quick local hops to full‑day excursions linking several towns. Operators like those on Tripadvisor’s boat tours and CheckYeti run trips year-round, though late autumn departures depend on the weather. Fewer crowds mean quieter ports and more space to breathe.
Dress in layers and bring a windproof jacket—the sea breeze can surprise you, even on mild days. If you like flexibility, pick a smaller boat that allows stops in seaside villages. You’ll have time to walk the harbors and snap photos before heading back.
7) Discover local art galleries and studios in Rapallo
Rapallo’s art spaces are tucked among historic streets, offering a quieter side of the Riviera. Many galleries showcase regional painters and sculptors who focus on coastal life, color, and light. It’s an easy stop if you’re curious about how modern Ligurian artists see tradition.
Start with Galleria Le Stanze – Arte in Riviera, known for contemporary exhibitions in a small, friendly space. You can often chat with artists at openings. Centro D’arte Mercurio features photography and mixed media, so there’s a bit of everything.
Some private studios welcome visitors by appointment. Tripadvisor’s Rapallo art gallery list includes family-run spaces attached to bookshops or artisan stores. A few double as workshops—you might catch a restoration project or see ceramics in progress.
Most venues cluster near the center and along Via Mazzini, so you can walk between them. Visit in the afternoon when the sunlight fills the rooms and the artwork really pops.
8) Wander through the charming streets of Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure is easy to reach by train or ferry from Rapallo or Portofino. Once you arrive, don’t rush to the coast—take time to meander the compact center. Narrow lanes connect colorful buildings, bakeries, and shops that have served locals for generations.
The waterfront promenade is the town’s heart. Fishermen still unload their catch beside sleek yachts, and cafés line the marina with Ligurian dishes and espresso. For a feel of the town’s layout and vibe, check out this walking perspective.
Architecture here is a mix of late-19th-century villas and pastel houses with painted details. Some façades show their age—a reminder that Santa Margherita is lived-in, not just a resort for tourists.
If you want a quiet moment, stroll inland to lanes that lead toward the Villa Durazzo gardens or climb to viewpoints over the bay. For more tips and highlights, see things to do in Santa Margherita Ligure.
9) Relax at the pebble beaches near Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso al Mare stands out among the Cinque Terre villages. It has wider beaches and smooth pebbles—much easier for lounging, and you won’t leave covered in sand. The Fegina beach, in the newer part of town, runs along the waterfront with clear sea views and the occasional train passing quietly by.
Pick a public section if you want space to wander, or pay a little for a sunbed in the private areas. The mix of locals and travelers keeps things lively but not overwhelming, especially outside of summer. The water stays calm enough for swimming, even in early December, though you might not want to linger too long—it gets chilly.
Afterward, wander into the old town for a slower pace and a few family-run cafés. Local guides like the Cinque Terre travel overview on Tripadvisor help you plan around the season. Even in late autumn, the light over the pebbles and pastel buildings really captures what makes this stretch of the Italian Riviera worth your time.
10) Tour historic villas and gardens in Bordighera
Step into Bordighera’s past by wandering through its 19th-century villas and leafy gardens. Back in the day, British and German travelers flocked here for the Ligurian climate, and you can still spot their influence in the architecture and landscaping.
Start with the villas and museums near the old town. These places blend neoclassical flair with lush botanical spaces—think palm trees, olive groves, and a wild mix of exotic plants. It’s quiet here, definitely a change of pace from the busy seaside promenade just down the hill.
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As you walk around, you’ll see each villa tucked into its own patch of the hillside. The gardens keep old plant species alive and frame some pretty great views of the Mediterranean. Access isn’t always straightforward, so it’s smart to check opening hours or maybe tag along with a local guide.
If you’re into local history, stop by one of Bordighera’s smaller museums. You’ll find period furnishings and old travel photos that capture how tourism shaped this coastal town. The play of architecture, greenery, and seaside light really ties the past to the present.
Seasonal Weather and What to Expect
Late autumn on the Italian Riviera feels mild and mellow. Days get shorter, streets quiet down, and sea breezes sweep away the last of summer’s heat. Fishing ports slow to a relaxed rhythm, but the place still feels inviting.
Typical November-December Climate
From late November through early December, daytime temperatures usually hover between 10°C and 16°C (50–61°F). Rain shows up more than in summer, but it rarely sticks around all day. Figure on about 6–8 days of light rain per month, mixed with sunny spells. Along the coast—Portofino or La Spezia, for example—it feels a bit warmer than in the hill villages, where evenings cool off quickly.
At night, temps drop to around 7–9°C (45–48°F), so you’ll want an extra layer if you’re dining outside. The sea’s too cold for swimming, but boat tours still run if the weather cooperates. According to Full Suitcase’s Italy in November overview, the Riviera follows the same weather patterns as the rest of Liguria: steady breezes, crisp mornings, and a bit of mid-day warmth.
Humidity sits at a comfortable level, so you’ll get clear views for scenic drives or cliffside walks. The cooler air sharpens the local scents—sea salt, pine from the hills, and the ever-present aroma of espresso drifting out of cafés.
Recommended Clothing and Gear
Pack for variety. A water-resistant jacket, comfortable walking shoes, and light layers will cover most situations. You might start the day with sunshine, hit some drizzle in the afternoon, and end up with a cool, dry evening.
Locals lean toward neutral, practical clothing—chinos, jeans, or wool trousers with layers on top. A compact umbrella is handy, especially for ducking through narrow old town streets. If you’re headed out for a short hike in Cinque Terre or Portovenere, go for trail shoes with good grip; those stone paths get slick when wet.
Thinking of a small-boat cruise to Portovenere? Discover Italian Riviera’s weekly guide suggests bringing a windbreaker and non-slip shoes to stay comfortable on deck. Toss in a scarf, gloves, and a light hat—they’re easy to pack and make evening walks by the harbor a lot more pleasant.
Getting Around the Italian Riviera in Early December
With smaller crowds, getting around the Ligurian coast feels refreshingly simple. Regional trains connect the dots between towns, and driving lets you reach those tucked-away villages and hillside markets.
Public Transportation Options
Trains are your best bet for moving up and down the coast. The Trenitalia regional line links the main towns—Genoa, Rapallo, Monterosso, Ventimiglia—with solid winter schedules. Evening departures are a bit less frequent, so double-check those timetables. Many stations are right by the sea, making it easy to stroll into old town centers.
Buses fill the gaps, especially between smaller inland towns and train stations. They’re common around Genoa and La Spezia but slow down on weekends. Buy tickets at local tobacco shops or through handy apps like ATC Tigullio.
If you’re planning a day trip to places like Cinque Terre, look into the Cinque Terre Card—it covers unlimited train rides and access to park trails. Ferries, which are everywhere in summer, only run limited December routes between bigger harbors like Genoa and Portofino. For an updated list of events and train-accessible sights, check out 10 exciting things to do in the Italian Riviera this week.
Driving and Parking Tips
Driving gives you real freedom—especially when you want to poke around the Ligurian hills or stumble into a tiny hamlet. The roads twist and narrow up there, so you’ll need to stay alert and keep your speed in check. The A10 Autostrada dei Fiori zips you between towns pretty fast, but yeah, you’ll hit tolls along the way. If you’re renting, double-check that you’ve got snow chains tossed in the trunk; after a rain or a cold snap, those mountain roads can get dicey.
Parking? Well, that’s a whole thing. The older towns weren’t exactly designed for cars, so squeezing in can be tricky. Most seaside villages don’t let you drive into the center and instead have these blue-zone paid lots on the outskirts. Bring coins or a card for the meters—some of those machines just stare blankly at foreign apps and refuse to cooperate. If you’re aiming for Cinque Terre, honestly, just ditch the car in La Spezia or Levanto and hop on the train. It’s way less stressful, and you won’t get slammed with crazy parking fees.
Fuel stations stick to main routes, but the smaller ones? They shut down for midday breaks—of course. If you’re planning to drive in the evening, better top off your tank earlier or you might find yourself waiting around.
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About the Italian Riviera
Cinque Terre Travel Guide
Cuisine of the Italian Riviera
Genoa Travel Guide
Italian Riviera Landmarks
Riviera di Levante Travel Guide
Riviera di Ponente Travel Guide
