September on the Italian Riviera is kind of perfect—warm days, fewer crowds, and open trails make it so much easier to enjoy the coast and villages. You get this sweet spot of outdoor adventures, cultural stops, and lazy seaside afternoons—just without the summer chaos. This week, you’ll find the region feels slower, but honestly, that’s part of the charm.
You’ll bounce between coastal paths, old town centers, and little harbors, each showing off a different side of Ligurian life. Whether you’re hiking, hopping on a boat, or chasing down the best focaccia, you’ll get a taste of what makes mid-September special here.
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1) Hike the Cinque Terre trails between Monterosso and Vernazza
Start in Monterosso and head for Vernazza along the Blue Trail—probably the most iconic stretch. It’s about 3.7 km and usually takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how often you stop for photos or to catch your breath. Expect lots of steps, some narrow bits, and those classic uneven stones.
You’ll walk past terraced vineyards and olive trees—locals have been working these hills forever, it seems. The sea’s always there, and as you get closer, Vernazza’s bright houses pop into view. On a clear day, you can see right down the coast.
You’ll need a Cinque Terre Card for the trail—grab one at park offices or train stations. Sometimes, especially when it’s busy, they make everyone walk in the same direction to avoid traffic jams. Bring water; you won’t find any until you hit Vernazza.
Need more details? Check out this Monterosso to Vernazza trail guide for maps and tips. The hike’s doable for most people with moderate fitness and decent shoes.
2) Explore the colorful village of Portofino and its harbor
Catch a boat or bus into Portofino and you’ll see its famous harbor ringed with pastel buildings. It’s a lively little spot—fishing boats and yachts all squeezed together. Strolling the quay gives you a front-row seat to daily life in this postcard-perfect village.
The main square, Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta, sits right on the water. Cafés and restaurants line the edge—sure, prices are steeper than in neighboring towns, but honestly, you’re paying for the view and the people-watching.
If you’re up for a short, sometimes sweaty climb, take the path to Castello Brown. It’s less than 20 minutes, but it does get steep. At the top, you’ll see how the houses wrap around the harbor, all against a backdrop of green hills.
Want something quieter? Keep walking past the harbor to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo. Fewer people, more sea views, and a bit of peace—sometimes you need the break from the crowds.
For more ideas, check out things to do in Portofino and see what else catches your eye.
3) Visit the Abbey of San Fruttuoso by boat
The Abbey of San Fruttuoso is only reachable by sea or on foot. Most people take a boat—ferries run from Camogli, Portofino, and Santa Margherita Ligure, usually about 30 minutes depending on where you start.
The abbey’s tucked into a quiet cove, surrounded by steep hills and thick woods. Arriving by boat, you get this dramatic view of old stone buildings right up against the water. It’s peaceful, honestly a world away from the busier towns.
Hop off the boat and you can wander the medieval complex, including a tiny cloister and a pebbly beach. There’s also the Christ of the Abyss, a bronze statue sunk in the bay back in the ’50s. Divers and snorkelers love it.
Boat schedules change with the seasons, and bad weather can stop service, so check times before you go. For routes and details, here’s a guide to visiting the Abbey of San Fruttuoso.
4) Relax on the beaches of Levanto
Levanto feels like a breath of fresh air compared to the Cinque Terre crowds. The main beach, Spiaggia Levanto, is long, sandy, and the water’s shallow enough for swimming. Families like it for the easy access and laid-back vibe.
If you want something quieter, head along the coastal path toward Bonassola. You’ll pass small coves—great for a swim without anyone around, though don’t expect many facilities. Pack your own water and snacks.
Levanto’s also a big surf spot, especially as autumn swells roll in. You can rent a board or take a lesson right on the beach. Not into surfing? Just watching the locals and visitors ride the waves is entertaining.
Levanto’s wide sandy beaches are a nice change from Cinque Terre’s rocky coves. There are both paid lidos with umbrellas and free spots where you can just throw down a towel and relax.
5) Discover the historic center of La Spezia
Start in Piazza Garibaldi, which connects most of the city’s main streets. From there, narrow lanes pull you into older neighborhoods where daily life buzzes between historic buildings. It’s easy to walk, though sometimes it gets a bit packed.
You’ll spot 19th-century architecture next to modern shops. La Spezia doesn’t have that medieval vibe like some nearby towns, but it’s got its own thing going as a naval and commercial center.
Pop into the Civic Museum for a quick look at local archaeology and art. It’s small, so you won’t lose half your day, but you’ll get a sense of the area’s Roman roots and later influences.
Keep wandering and you’ll find markets selling produce, fish, and regional specialties. It’s a nice way to see Ligurian food culture up close, though prices can climb in touristy spots.
The historic center is also full of places to eat—small trattorias serving up seafood from the Gulf of Poets. Menus are simple, service is quick, and the food’s usually solid.
6) Take a boat tour along the Ligurian coast
Honestly, the best way to see the Ligurian coastline is from the water. Boat tours show off the cliffs, fishing villages, and those terraced hillsides you just can’t appreciate from land. Most trips swing past Cinque Terre, Portovenere, and the Gulf of La Spezia.
You’ll find everything from small group outings to private charters. Some tours are quick, others last all day and make stops in different towns. Browse Tripadvisor’s Liguria boat rides or GetYourGuide Ligurian Sea tours to compare options.
September usually means calm seas and warm evenings, but wind can still cancel trips, so double-check conditions before you leave.
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Prices depend on group size and length. Shared tours are pretty affordable, while private boats cost more but give you total freedom. Booking ahead is smart, but some operators will take walk-ups if they’ve got space.
Looking for fewer crowds? Try catching a tour from Levanto or La Spezia instead of the busier ports like Monterosso or Portofino.
7) Sample fresh seafood at a seaside trattoria in Camogli
Camogli’s little trattorias serve some of the freshest seafood you’ll find anywhere. The town’s fishing roots run deep, and plenty of spots still buy straight from local boats.
One favorite is La Trattoria del Pesce, just behind Piazza Cristoforo Colombo. Opened in 2015, it’s earned a reputation for simple, well-cooked seafood.
Menus usually feature anchovies, mussels, and whatever was caught that day—prepared with olive oil and herbs, nothing fussy. Portions aren’t huge, and you’ll pay a bit more than inland, but that’s the trade-off for being right by the sea.
Seating’s tight, especially outside, so it’s smart to book ahead for dinner. Service can be brisk—don’t expect lingering over every course, but that’s the style here.
Want to see other options? Check Camogli seafood restaurants on Tripadvisor for different menus and price points. Whether you want a quick lunch or a slow dinner by the harbor, you’ve got choices.
8) Wander through the narrow streets of Santa Margherita Ligure
Step into Santa Margherita Ligure’s center and you’ll notice how compact it is. Pastel houses with painted facades line the streets, showing off those classic Ligurian patterns. Walking here gives you a peek at daily life, away from the marina and main piazza.
Shops fill the lanes—local goods, groceries, and tiny cafés. You might stumble on bakeries selling fresh focaccia or family-run gelato shops with flavors that change by the week. Prices are friendlier than in Portofino, so you can treat yourself without worrying.
As you wander uphill, the alleys get quieter and more residential. Sometimes you’ll catch a glimpse of the sea between buildings, or find a little lookout above town. Some parts are steep—good shoes help.
Curious? Browse the colorful streets of Santa Margherita Ligure in photos and guides. These lanes aren’t flashy, but they’re real, and slowing down here feels right after busier coastal days.
9) Enjoy a wine tasting in the vineyards near Dolceacqua
Head into the hills around Dolceacqua to try Rossese di Dolceacqua, a red wine you won’t find anywhere else. The vineyards sit on steep terraces, and you can really see how generations of farmers have shaped this land.
Many wineries offer small group tastings. At places like Casa del Grillo, you’ll sample wines and hear about the grapes, the soil, and the quirks of the local weather.
If you’d rather stay in town, the Enoteca Regionale lets you taste a bunch of Ligurian wines in one go—no need to drive those winding valley roads.
Tastings usually come with simple snacks: olives, focaccia, cheese. They let the wine shine without overcomplicating things.
If you’re driving, remember the roads around the Nervia Valley are narrow and twisty. Joining a guided tour, like those from Dolceacqua wine excursions, means you can relax and enjoy the wine without worrying about getting back.
10) Visit the medieval village of Tellaro
Tellaro sits on the eastern Ligurian coast, just a quick hop from Lerici. The village perches on rocky cliffs, its narrow lanes twisting down to the sea. You can wander the whole place in a few hours—honestly, that’s part of the appeal.
As you stroll through the alleys, you’ll spot those classic pastel Ligurian houses. The main church, Stella Maris, isn’t ancient (built in the 20th century), but it’s the heart of the village and holds a statue of St. George. If you’re curious, Visit Italy has more details.
The coast here doesn’t do sandy beaches; instead, you can swim straight off the rocks. Some people just sprawl out on the stone and watch the waves roll in. If you’re craving a bit more action, Lerici is nearby, with its castle, a lively promenade, and more places to eat. Italy Review gives a decent overview.
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Tellaro is for those who want to slow things down. There’s not much nightlife, and the shops are few, but that’s kind of the point. You come for quiet walks, sea views, and a peek at daily life in a small Ligurian fishing village.
Seasonal Highlights in the Italian Riviera
September hangs onto the warmth, but life along the coast shifts as the summer crowds fade. You get mild weather, less traffic in the towns, and a few cultural events that don’t come with the chaos of peak season.
Weather and What to Pack
Mid-September days usually hover between 22–26°C (72–79°F), with nights dipping to 16–18°C (61–64°F). The air cools off after sunset, so you’ll feel it. Rain happens more often, but showers usually pass quickly.
Pack in layers. You’ll want a breathable shirt and shorts for daytime walks or hikes, and a light sweater or jacket for evenings—especially if you’re eating outdoors by the water.
Shoes matter. Cobblestones in places like Portofino or Vernazza aren’t sandal-friendly, so bring sturdy walking shoes. If you’re planning to hike Cinque Terre trails or anything similar, go for real hiking shoes with grip.
A small umbrella or rain jacket is handy for surprise showers. Don’t forget sunglasses and sunscreen—the sun still has some bite around midday.
Local Events and Festivals
This week falls in a quieter gap between big summer festivals and the grape harvest, but you’ll still find a few things going on. Coastal towns set up food markets where you can snack on focaccia, anchovies, and local grapes.
In Genoa, you might stumble across small music or art events tucked into neighborhood piazzas. These tend to draw more locals than tourists, so you get a taste of real life in the region.
Inland wine villages start celebrating the grape harvest with sagre (local food festivals). Expect wine tastings and simple, homey dishes made by community groups. These gatherings are casual, cheap, and visitors are totally welcome.
If you’d rather skip the crowds, September strikes a nice balance—plenty to do, but without the shoulder-to-shoulder tourist traffic of July and August.
Travel Tips for September Visits
Traveling the Italian Riviera in September means thinner crowds, gentler weather, and a bit more wiggle room. Still, you’ll want to keep an eye on train times, bus routes, and places to stay, since the region gets steady visitors even after summer’s rush.
Transportation Options
Trains are your best bet for hopping between coastal towns. The regional Trenitalia line links Genoa, Cinque Terre, and La Spezia, with frequent daytime service. Delays don’t happen often, but check the schedule—after mid-September, evening trains thin out.
Local buses cover spots the trains skip, especially up in the hills. They’re cheap but don’t run as often on Sundays. Taxis are easy to find in bigger towns, though longer rides along the coast get pricey fast.
If you’re thinking of renting a car, brace yourself for narrow roads, scarce parking, and those strict ZTL (restricted traffic) zones in old town centers. Parking in Cinque Terre and Portofino costs a lot, and spots fill up early. For short visits, honestly, public transport is just less hassle.
Ferries still run between places like Monterosso, Vernazza, and Portovenere. Weather can mess with the schedule, but on calm days, ferries offer the best coastal views. Buying tickets at the dock is straightforward, though morning boats can sell out quickly.
Accommodation Insights
Hotels and guesthouses usually drop their prices in September, but spots like Vernazza and Portofino? Still tough to snag a room unless you book early. If you’re open to staying a bit outside the main buzz, places like Levanto or Rapallo tend to have more options. They’re less stressful for parking, and their train stations make day trips a breeze.
A lot of family-run pensions and agriturismi keep their doors open through September. You’ll often find quieter nights and some truly memorable home-cooked food. Just a heads up—many of these spots don’t use the big booking sites, so you’ll want to reach out by phone or email.
Apartments work well if you’re planning to cook or settle in for more than a couple nights. Double-check about air conditioning. Sure, evenings start to cool off, but afternoons can still surprise you with some heat.
If you like to keep things spontaneous, Genoa’s your best bet for last-minute hotel options. You can hop on a train and be at the coast in under an hour, so it’s a pretty smart base if you don’t want to commit.
For more ideas, check out this overview of things to do in the Italian Riviera in September.
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