The Italian Riviera is a place that kind of sneaks up on you—one minute you’re marveling at pastel villages, the next you’re eating seafood with your feet in the sand. From Cinque Terre’s cliffside colors to Portofino’s polished charm, this stretch of Liguria delivers a vibe that’s hard not to love. Mid-May? Pretty much perfect: warm but not too hot, locals still smile at you, and you won’t pay through the nose for a hotel.
This week, the coast buzzes with that pre-summer energy. Restaurants show off new menus full of just-caught fish and spring veggies. If you’re up for hiking or just want to wander cobbled lanes and people-watch, the Riviera’s got your back. It’s a good time to catch the region at its best—when the sun’s out but the crowds haven’t hit their stride.
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1) Explore the Aquarium of Genoa, one of Europe’s largest marine life exhibits
The Aquarium of Genoa is massive—Europe’s biggest, actually—right in Genoa’s old port. You’ll get up close to over 5,000 animals, from neon-bright fish and hypnotic jellyfish to seals that seem to mug for your camera.
They built the aquarium for the Genoa Expo, and now it’s the city’s star attraction. It’s smack in the historic port, so after your visit, you can check out other cool spots nearby.
This week, lines can get long, so grab a reserved ticket ahead of time. That way, you just stroll in at your chosen hour instead of standing around.
Give yourself 2-3 hours to wander through all the exhibits. It’s a solid bet even if the weather’s iffy outside—no rain gear needed.
2) Hike the scenic natural park trails around Portofino
If you’re itching for a hike, Portofino’s natural park is calling. Over 40 trails twist through pine forests, olive groves, and wildflowers, with sea views that’ll have you stopping for photos every few minutes.
The weather this week? Just right—about 22°C (72°F) and barely a hint of rain. Mornings are cooler and quieter, so lace up early if you want the trails mostly to yourself.
Paths link up villages like Camogli, San Fruttuoso, and Portofino. If you’re up for a real adventure, try the half-day trek to San Fruttuoso Bay. You can only reach this little beach by foot or boat, which makes arriving feel like a reward.
Bring good shoes, plenty of water, and sunscreen. Some trails get steep, so basic fitness helps. Pick up a map at the tourist office in Portofino or Santa Margherita. Weekdays are usually less crowded, which is always a plus.
3) Travel by train along the Italian Riviera coastline for stunning views
The train along the Italian Riviera is more than just transportation—it’s a rolling window on the region. Local trains link all the coastal towns, and the views are ridiculous: turquoise water, vineyards clinging to cliffs, and villages that look painted on.
The Genoa–La Spezia line is the classic. Sit on the right heading south (or left going north) for the best sea views. This week, blue skies mean you’ll see for miles.
Trains run often—usually every 30 minutes—so you can hop on and off as you please. If you’re bouncing around Cinque Terre, grab a Train Card; it covers unlimited rides and trail access for a day.
Don’t forget to validate your ticket at the little yellow machines before you board. Fines are real, and the conductors don’t mess around.
4) Walk through the colorful seaside villages of Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre is five cliff-hugging villages—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore—each with its own quirks and colors. The whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s easy to see why.
You can hike between the villages for those iconic sea views, or just ride the train if you’re not feeling the uphill climbs. Monterosso has the only real sandy beach, while Vernazza is the one everyone seems to photograph (and for good reason).
Manarola’s stacked pastel houses are a photographer’s dream. For tips on what to do in each spot, start early—this week gets busy.
Grab local seafood or a plate of pesto pasta at a slow-paced trattoria. Cinque Terre moves at its own rhythm, so don’t rush it.
Train tickets between villages are cheap, but the hiking trails sometimes close if the weather’s rough. It’s worth checking the trail status before you lace up your boots.
5) Visit Boccadasse, a charming fishing village in Genoa
Just a quick hop from central Genoa, Boccadasse feels like a time capsule—tiny, colorful houses and fishing boats bobbing by the shore. The place looks almost staged, but it’s the real deal.
Wander the narrow alleys, and you’ll stumble onto a little pebble beach perfect for a breather. It’s a good spot to just sit and watch the waves, maybe with a gelato in hand.
Boccadasse is a bit of a secret, a historic fishing village that feels miles away from Genoa’s busy center. The slow pace is a relief if you’ve spent the day dodging crowds.
Cafes here serve up fresh seafood and some of the best gelato around. May evenings are usually mild enough for outdoor tables with a view. If you can, swing by at sunset—the light is unreal.
6) Enjoy Ligurian cuisine, including authentic pesto and fresh seafood
Ligurian food is all about seafood, herbs, and that famous pesto. This week, lots of restaurants roll out special menus to show off the season’s best.
You can even join a culinary tour starting May 18—think olive oil mills, wine tastings, and plenty of hands-on eating. If you’re curious about making pesto the old-school way, there are classes where you’ll pound basil with a mortar and pestle in fancy old palaces (like this). Watching a local chef blend basil, pine nuts, garlic, and olive oil is oddly satisfying.
Seafood is everywhere—anchovies from Monterosso, stuffed mussels, and simple grilled fish with lemon and oil. Don’t skip the focaccia, either; every bakery has its own take, but in Genoa, it’s all about olive oil and salt.
Food tours (like these) are a fun way to graze your way through town—think pesto pasta, cheeses, and savory pastries, with plenty of stories along the way.
7) Take a ferry or hike to the secluded beach of San Fruttuoso
San Fruttuoso is one of those places you can’t just drive to—makes it feel extra special. Reach it by ferry from Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, or Portofino, or hike in if you’re feeling adventurous.
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Ferries run regularly this week, costing about €12-15 each way. Seas can get choppy, so check the weather before you set out. If you’d rather hoof it, trails through Portofino Park are well-marked and take about 90 minutes from Camogli—expect some steep bits, but the views are worth it.
Once you arrive, you’ll find the Baia Di San Fruttuoso, a little pebble cove with a 10th-century abbey as its backdrop. The water’s crystal clear—great for a swim or some snorkeling.
There are a couple of restaurants, but prices are higher than in the towns and cash is king—don’t count on your card working. This week, guided abbey tours run at 11:00am and 3:00pm, if you want a peek into its history.
8) Discover trompe-l’oeil street art in Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure has a quirky side—look up as you wander and you’ll spot trompe-l’oeil art painted on building facades. These clever details—fake arches, balconies, and columns—fool your eye and add a playful twist to the town’s architecture.
You’ll see some of the best examples along the waterfront, but don’t be afraid to duck into side streets for hidden gems. The tradition goes back centuries and still pops up everywhere.
This week’s weather is perfect for a self-guided stroll. Bring your camera—the way sunlight and shadows play on the painted surfaces changes by the hour. Early mornings highlight the details, while in the evening, the illusions seem to deepen.
Santa Margherita Ligure is just the right size for wandering, with a lively vibe and plenty of spots to linger over a coffee while you admire the artistry.
9) Relax on the beaches near La Spezia and explore nearby hiking trails
La Spezia’s beaches might be pebbly, but they’re perfect for unwinding after a busy week of sightseeing. The waterfront has plenty of spots where you can stretch out in the sun or take a dip in the Mediterranean—yeah, the water really is that clear most days.
Not far from the shoreline, you’ll stumble onto a web of hiking trails with some pretty jaw-dropping coastal views. Some trails are easygoing strolls, while others will make you break a sweat—so whether you’re a casual walker or a die-hard hiker, there’s something for you.
If you’re not sure where to start, the La Spezia Cruise Terminal area is a good bet. From there, it’s simple to reach both the beaches and the trails.
Honestly, packing a picnic with Ligurian goodies—think focaccia, pesto, maybe some seafood—makes the hike way better. It’s just more fun when you’ve got local snacks to keep your energy up.
May’s weather usually cooperates: warm, mostly sunny, and not too hot. Still, bring sunscreen, plenty of water, and maybe a light jacket if you plan to climb higher up the trails. The wind can surprise you.
10) Dine with locals in Rapallo and learn to make traditional pesto
If you want a real taste of Liguria, try joining a local dinner in Rapallo next week. These get-togethers are usually relaxed, friendly, and give you a peek into everyday life—plus, you get to sample dishes you probably won’t find at touristy spots.
One of the best parts? Learning to make authentic pesto sauce. This bright green sauce comes straight from Liguria, and locals treat it almost like a family heirloom.
You’ll get to roll up your sleeves for a hands-on “mani in pasta” session. Local cooks walk you through the steps, sharing tips and stories as you go. It’s not about fancy gadgets—just good ingredients and old-school techniques.
Gabriella’s Pesto & Pasta Cooking Class runs several times a week, so you can usually find a slot that fits your plans. They provide everything you need, so just show up ready to cook (and eat).
If you’re around for the culinary tours running May 18-24, this class fits right in. These experiences book up fast, though, since both travelers and locals jump at the chance for something authentic.
Best Times and Tips for Visiting the Italian Riviera in Late May
Late May is pretty much the sweet spot for the Italian Riviera. The weather’s comfortable, crowds haven’t hit their peak, and most places are open for business. Local festivals start popping up, and there’s a buzz as summer approaches.
What to Expect from the Weather
Expect daytime temperatures between 18-24°C (65-75°F), with nights cooling off to around 15°C (59°F). Most days are sunny, and you get a solid 8-10 hours of daylight—plenty of time for beach hopping or wandering through the towns.
Rain can happen, but it’s not common—maybe 4-6 days all month, and usually just a quick shower in the afternoon. Bring a light rain jacket just in case, but don’t let the forecast stress you out.
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The sea sits at about 19°C (66°F). It’s a bit brisk at first, but you get used to it, especially when the sun’s out. Sometimes there’s fog in the morning, but it rarely sticks around.
Weather shifts depending on where you are. Portofino and other coastal spots tend to be warmer than the hills. Evenings can get chilly, so a light jacket or sweater is smart if you’re out late.
Essential Packing Advice for Spring
Clothing Essentials:
- Lightweight layers (t-shirts, light sweaters)
- A waterproof jacket for those surprise showers
- Comfortable walking shoes (cobblestones are everywhere)
- One dressier outfit if you want to splurge on a nice dinner
- Swimwear and a quick-dry towel
Practical Items:
- Sunscreen (SPF 30+ is a safe bet)
- Sunglasses and a hat with a brim
- Reusable water bottle
- Small backpack for day trips
- European power adapter
Go for clothes that dry quickly—sea breezes and the odd shower can catch you off guard. Shops often have spring sales, so maybe leave a little space in your suitcase for something new.
Evenings can turn cool without warning. A scarf or cardigan in your bag is a lifesaver, even if the day starts warm. And don’t forget sturdy shoes if you want to tackle the hiking trails between towns, like the Sentiero Monterosso-Vernazza.
Navigating Local Transportation
Trains are the backbone here, running up and down the coast from Genoa to La Spezia. They come about every hour, sometimes more often during the day.
Grab the Cinque Terre Card (€18 for a day) for unlimited train rides between the five villages—and access to the hiking paths. Always validate your ticket before boarding; fines aren’t cheap and the conductors really do check.
Ferries are another fun way to get around, especially if you’re aiming for Santa Margherita or Portofino. Schedules pick up in late May, though not quite at summer levels.
Buses reach some of the smaller villages inland, but the timetables can be quirky. The AMT Genova app helps if you’re navigating around Genoa.
Parking gets tricky as the month goes on. It’s often easier to base yourself in a bigger town like Santa Margherita Ligure and do day trips rather than switching hotels all the time.
Cultural Etiquette and Local Experiences
Getting around the Riviera is about more than just seeing the sights—it’s about connecting with people and respecting the local vibe. A little effort goes a long way.
Customs and Traditions to Know
People greet each other with a kiss on both cheeks (or a handshake if you’re just meeting). When you walk into a shop, say “Buongiorno” or “Buonasera”—it’s polite and expected.
Meal times might seem late if you’re not used to it. Lunch is usually 12:30-2:30 PM, and dinner doesn’t really start before 8:00 PM. Ordering a cappuccino after 11 AM? Locals may give you a look, but hey, do what makes you happy.
If you’re visiting churches, cover shoulders and knees—some tourist hotspots really enforce it.
Tipping isn’t required since service is included, but rounding up for great service is always appreciated.
Connecting with the Local Community
Skip the tourist shops—wander through the morning markets in towns like Santa Margherita Ligure instead. You might spot trompe-l’oeil art and get a chance to try out a few Italian phrases with the friendly vendors. It’s a bit awkward at first, but honestly, people appreciate the effort.
In the early evening, join the “passeggiata”—that laid-back stroll along the waterfront. Locals do this daily between 5 and 7 PM. It’s a simple tradition, but you’ll catch snippets of conversation, laughter, and maybe even a wave from someone you chatted with earlier.
If you’re up for it, jump into a cooking class that focuses on regional favorites like pesto, focaccia, or whatever seafood’s fresh that day. Some small-town restaurants invite visitors for informal lessons when things are quiet. Don’t expect a polished production, but that’s half the charm.
Take a little detour to medieval villages like Èze. There, you’ll find demonstrations of old-school crafts and cooking. Sometimes it’s a bit touristy, but the passion folks put into their work is real.
Keep an eye out for local festivals this week—there are a handful of classical music performances popping up in piazzas all over the region. These gatherings aren’t just for show; they genuinely welcome visitors and offer a glimpse into the area’s cultural heartbeat.
Get a discount of 15% to 70% on accommodation in the Italian Riviera! Look for deals here:
Italian Riviera Hotels, Apartments, B&Bs
About the Italian Riviera
Cinque Terre Travel Guide
Cuisine of the Italian Riviera
Genoa Travel Guide
Italian Riviera Landmarks
Riviera di Levante Travel Guide
Riviera di Ponente Travel Guide
