You’ve landed on the Italian Riviera just as summer’s about to hit its stride. The days stretch out, the sea’s finally warm enough for a dip, and the coast feels alive. You can hike between cliff-hugging villages, hop on little boats to tucked-away abbeys, swim in clear coves, and zip along the coast by train or ferry.
Here’s how I’d spend May 17–23, 2026: a mix of hikes, boat rides, food stops, and a few practical notes to help you plan each day without too much second-guessing. You’ll see the famous spots and some less-hyped corners, with honest tips on timing, transport, and what you’re really in for.
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1) Hike the Monterosso–Vernazza trail (Cinque Terre)
This stretch of the Blue Trail between Monterosso and Vernazza is a classic for a reason. The path climbs fast above the water, then weaves through terraced vineyards and up and down stone steps. Don’t expect a lazy stroll—there’s a good bit of up and down.
You’ll need a Cinque Terre Card for this coastal section, as explained on the Monterosso–Vernazza Blue Trail and the Cinque Terre hiking trails pages. Rangers often check tickets when it’s busy.
It’s about 3.5 km (just over 2 miles), and most people take 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how many photos they stop for. The stone staircases can be tough, so sturdy shoes are a must.
Head out early to beat the heat and the cruise ship crowds. Bring water—shade is pretty scarce. When you finally reach Vernazza, cool off with a swim by the little harbor before catching the train.
2) Boat trip to San Fruttuoso Abbey and Doria tower
San Fruttuoso’s only reachable by boat from Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, or Portofino—no roads here, and honestly, that’s half the charm. Ferries run often in May, and the sea’s usually still in the mornings.
The tiny bay centers on a 10th-century abbey you can actually tour. There’s a helpful San Fruttuoso Abbey 2026 guide. The cloister and upper loggia give you a perfect view of the beach and water.
Step outside and you’re on a narrow pebble beach, with steep forest right behind. Water shoes help—those stones are no joke. Swimming’s allowed, but it gets crowded fast.
Off to the side, the Doria tower rises above the houses. That old stone lookout once guarded the bay from raids. It’s a reminder that this quiet cove used to matter way more to local defense.
Budget three to four hours for the round trip. If you’re coming on a weekend, book ahead.
3) Stroll Portofino’s Piazzetta and Castello Brown
Start at the harbor’s Piazzetta, the main village square. Cafés spill out along the water, with fishing boats bobbing next to shiny yachts. Grab an espresso and just watch the world drift by.
From there, head up toward Castello Brown. The path winds through pines and old stone walls, about 15 minutes if you’re not rushing. You can check the route in this Portofino walking tour.
Castello Brown’s a 16th-century fortress that once guarded the coast from pirates. Now it’s a museum and a killer viewpoint, as detailed in this Castello Brown history guide. The view over the harbor and out to sea is worth the climb.
Go early or late to dodge the crowds—weekends get wild. Wear shoes with grip; the steps are uneven and can be slick.
4) Swim at Paraggi Beach near Portofino
Paraggi Beach is just minutes from Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure. It’s a tiny bay with actual sand, which is rare in Liguria. Here’s more about Paraggi Beach.
The water’s usually clear and calm. Bring goggles if you want to check out the rocky edges. Guides rave about the conditions at Paraggi Bay.
There are both public spots and private clubs. The clubs rent sunbeds and have changing rooms, but prices jump in late May, especially on weekends. If you want a free spot, show up early.
Parking’s a pain along the coastal road. Walk or catch the bus if you can—it’s just easier.
5) Explore Genoa’s Old Harbor and Aquarium
Kick things off at Porto Antico, Genoa’s revamped Old Harbor. Walk the waterfront, watch ferries come and go, and see how this city is still all about the sea.
The Aquarium of Genoa is the main draw—one of Europe’s biggest. Since opening in 1992, it’s packed in dozens of marine habitats. You’ll move from Mediterranean tanks to tropical fish, sharks, and even marine mammals. It’s easy to follow, and surprisingly fun even if you’re not a huge aquarium fan.
If you’re coming on a weekend, buy tickets online—lines can get long by late morning. Plan for at least two hours inside, especially if you’ve got kids along.
After, wander more of the harbor area (see this Genoa Port guide). Ride the Bigo panoramic elevator for city views or hop on a short boat tour. The area feels modern, but Genoa’s historic center is just a few minutes’ walk away—easy to do both in one afternoon.
6) Wine tasting of Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà
Spend an afternoon tasting Sciacchetrà, the region’s rare sweet wine. Growers dry Bosco, Vermentino, and Albarola grapes before pressing, giving the wine its amber color and punchy flavor.
Small producers in Vernazza and nearby hills offer tastings. One good option: this Sciacchetrà tasting in a Vernazza cellar, where you’ll sample in a cozy space and hear how families still work these crazy-steep terraces by hand.
Want a broader take? Try an organized Cinque Terre winery tour—they usually include a vineyard walk and a look at the drying process before you taste.
It’s pricier than basic table wine. But considering the effort and tiny production, you’re tasting a legit local tradition.
7) Sunset aperitivo on a Santa Margherita Ligure terrace
End a day in Santa Margherita Ligure with an aperitivo overlooking the harbor. Around 7:30 pm, the light’s just right and fishing boats roll in. Locals gather before dinner, and you can join them with a spritz or a glass of crisp Ligurian Vermentino.
The vibe’s more relaxed than Portofino, but the views are just as good—and the prices are better, as this Santa Margherita Ligure guide points out. Pick a terrace on the promenade for open views, or duck one street back for quieter tables and cheaper drinks.
Order a few olives, focaccia, or some seafood to share. Many bars toss in snacks with your drink, but it’s smart to check so you’re not surprised on the bill.
Need more ideas? Here’s a list of things to do in Santa Margherita Ligure. Show up before sunset to snag a table, especially on warm evenings.
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8) Train hop between Cinque Terre villages (Manarola to Riomaggiore)
You can zip between Manarola and Riomaggiore by train in just a few minutes—they’re only one stop apart on the local line connecting La Spezia and Levanto.
Trenitalia runs frequent regional trains, usually every 20–30 minutes during the day, so you can ditch the car. Check the Cinque Terre Express timetable for up-to-date schedules.
In winter, short hops cost under €3, but summer fares inside the park can run €5 to €10, depending on when and what ticket you buy. There’s a breakdown here: how to get around Cinque Terre by train.
You’ll pass through tunnels with quick flashes of sea views. The ride’s short, but it saves you a steep coastal walk—handy if the Via dell’Amore is still closed or packed.
Buy tickets ahead and validate if needed. Platforms are tiny, so arrive a bit early and keep an eye on the signs.
9) Day trip to Camogli and the Abbey of San Fruttuoso by ferry
Catch a morning train to Camogli and stroll down to the harbor. Tall pastel buildings overlook a small fishing port, and you’ll still see locals mending nets. Grab a pastry, then hop on a boat to San Fruttuoso.
Several operators run ferries across Golfo Paradiso, including the Camogli–San Fruttuoso route. Boats go more often in late May, but schedules depend on the sea. Buy tickets ahead if it’s sunny.
The ride’s about 30 minutes, winding past cliffs and coves you just can’t reach by road.
San Fruttuoso sits in a tight bay under Portofino’s headland. The Abbey of San Fruttuoso stands right on the beach. You can tour the cloister and tower, and maybe swim if the water’s calm.
Expect pebbles, little shade, and pricier cafés—it’s remote, after all. If you’d rather hike, you can also walk in from Camogli through Portofino Park.
10) Sample focaccia al formaggio in Recco
Take a short train east of Genoa and stop in Recco, a seaside town famous for its cheese-filled flatbread. Locals call it focaccia col formaggio, and it’s nothing like the thicker focaccia you see elsewhere.
The real deal has PGI status, which limits production to Recco and a few nearby towns under strict rules. More on that at Focaccia di Recco col Formaggio. The recipe stays simple and true to tradition.
Bakeries stretch two thin dough layers and fill them with fresh, mild cheese. They bake it hot, so the top crisps up and the inside stays gooey.
Order a portion at a bakery or restaurant and eat it while it’s hot. The official site, Recco — La Patria della Focaccia col Formaggio, lists places serving it year-round.
Recco also has beaches and a tiny waterfront, but let’s be honest, most folks come for the focaccia. Arrive before peak lunch hours, especially on the weekend.
What to Know Before Visiting the Italian Riviera
Late May brings warm days, busy ferries, and packed trains along the coast. You’ll deal with changing weather, tough parking, and strong local traditions that shape daily life.
Weather Insights for Late May
Daytime temperatures usually land between 68–75°F (20–24°C) along the coast. Evenings cool off to about 60°F (15–16°C), especially in Cinque Terre and Portofino when the sea breeze picks up after sunset.
Pack light layers. Toss in a compact rain jacket—quick storms still roll through in May.
The sea stays pretty brisk, around 64–66°F (18–19°C). Some people swim, but honestly, most just sunbathe or hop on a boat.
Trails between villages are open, though rain can make those stone paths slick. Always check local trail updates before hiking, especially in Cinque Terre. You’ll find broader planning tips in this Italian Riviera travel guide.
Recommended Transportation Options
Trains are the way to go. The Genoa–La Spezia line links main stops like Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, Monterosso, and Riomaggiore. They run often and save you the headache of coastal roads.
Driving? It’s tricky. Parking runs €20–30 per day in the popular towns, and spots fill up fast.
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Secure Your Italian Getaway
Ferries start regular runs in May between Portofino, San Fruttuoso, and the Cinque Terre villages. Boats give you those classic coastal views and cut down on hiking time.
If you’re planning several stops, check out a structured route like this 5-day itinerary along the Italian Riviera. It’s mapped out with realistic travel times.
Cultural Etiquette and Local Customs
Life slows down outside peak summer. Shops tend to close from 1:00–3:30 p.m., especially in smaller towns.
Say “Buongiorno” when you enter a shop. It’s a small thing, but it matters.
Dress modestly away from the beach—locals don’t love it when people stroll through town in swimwear or shirtless.
Dinner usually doesn’t get going before 7:30 p.m. On May weekends, restaurants (especially in Portofino and Vernazza) often need reservations.
Support small trattorias and family-run spots if you can. Many still make pesto the old way, as shown in this feature on 10 exciting things to do in the Italian Riviera this week.
Maximizing Your Experience Along the Coast
You can dodge long waits, snap better photos, and ease your impact by making a few smart choices. Little tweaks in timing and habits really help along this busy stretch of Liguria.
Timing Your Visits to Popular Towns
Cinque Terre and Portofino get packed between 10:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m.—especially if the weather’s good. Cruise groups and regional trains all seem to land at once.
Try to arrive in places like Vernazza or Manarola before 9:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. The light’s nicer, it’s cooler, and you’ll find open tables. If you need ideas, scan the THE 10 BEST Things to Do in Italian Riviera (2026) page and trim your list from there.
Stick with regional trains instead of driving into small towns. Parking fills up early and costs more than you’d think.
Weekdays in May still bring a steady flow of visitors. Sunday afternoons? Those are the busiest.
Tips for Scenic Photography
You’ll get the best harbor shots when the sun sits lower, casting side light on pastel buildings. In Riomaggiore and Camogli, mornings work best; in Portofino, late afternoon brings out the bay’s depth.
Look for a spot just above street level. Staircases and hillside paths give you some space from the crowds—no need for a major climb.
Skip the main piazza at peak times. Wander 50–100 meters away, turn back toward the village, and you’ll catch rooftops, boats, and cliffs with fewer people in the frame.
If you want specific viewpoints or walking ideas, browse 11 Stunning Things to Do in the Italian Riviera. Use them as a base, but adjust for light and tide.
Keep your gear simple. A phone with HDR covers most scenes just fine.
Sustainable Travel Practices
You’re walking the same narrow streets and fragile trails as locals and seasonal workers. Try to keep that in mind.
Bring a refillable water bottle and look for public fountains labeled “acqua potabile.” It’s a simple way to cut down on plastic waste, which still piles up along beaches after busy weekends.
Stick to marked hiking paths between villages. Taking shortcuts wears down terraces—those same terraces where farmers keep growing olives and grapes.
Go for local trattorias instead of international chains. Those family-run spots really depend on visitors, especially outside the summer rush.
Train etiquette matters, too. Let people get off before you hop on, and don’t block the doors with your backpack. Little things like this actually make life easier for everyone in towns that see thousands of visitors daily.
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About the Italian Riviera
Cinque Terre Travel Guide
Cuisine of the Italian Riviera
Genoa Travel Guide
Italian Riviera Landmarks
Riviera di Levante Travel Guide
Riviera di Ponente Travel Guide
